Neven Maguire believes restaurant owners are experiencing the worst hardship in his 35 years in the trade, and has called for increased help from the new Government this year, writes Colm McGuirk.
The celebrity chef, who runs MacNean House & Restaurant in Blacklion, Co. Cavan, said 2024 was "definitely one of the most challenging years that I can remember".
He said a "perfect storm" of challenges has converged on the industry.
"The VAT rate was one thing, but it's so much else," Mr Maguire said.
"It's been the minimum wage, it's the cost of food and running your energy. It really has got harder."
The award-winning restaurateur said his business is "lucky' to be able to weather the storm - the waiting list for a weekend room and dinner at MacNean House is between one and two years - but called for more intervention to help less-established businesses.
"We're open 35 years - we've seen some really tough times, but we have a very consistent business," he said.
"But I definitely think the industry as a whole needs a lot of help and support now going forward next year - definitely it does."
The popular chef was speaking ahead of the new season of Neven's Portuguese Food Trails, starting on Wednesday on RTÉ 1.
He filmed a series in the Iberian country for the third time last summer, but said he has been going recreationally "probably twice a year for I'd say 15 years".
"It's the place we go more often than anywhere."
The capital, Lisbon, has "got very busy as a city" in that time, he reflected, highlighting Porto as "a brilliant weekend city".
But he said the people across the country "haven't changed - they're still nice and friendly".
"Great food and great value and I think the wine is spectacular. We try to increase the amount of Portuguese wines we have on our list in the restaurant. I think they're absolutely fantastic."
The TV chef said audiences are "in for a treat" with the new season, "because they're going to see probably a little bit of a different side to me that they wouldn't have seen before - in a nice, fun way".
Rather than focus on cuisine alone, the presenter said the new season contains elements more like a traditional travel show, with some adventuring and activities unrelated to food.
Asked how far from his comfort zone he'll stray - and whether those activities included any adrenaline rushes like a bungee jump - Mr Maguire laughed: "Definitely nothing like that. It's more local arts and crafts and exploring.
"And I watched it the other night with my wife - I'd be my biggest critic to be honest with you - I thought it was absolutely brilliant.
"Sometimes when I watch the programmes I think, 'Oh God, we didn't get enough packed into it'. But I think there's lots of really interesting stuff that will keep the audience entertained."
The series is usually filmed in one go over two busy weeks.
"You do three items a day," the cooking maestro explained. "You start at eight and you're finished at seven and it never really changes.

"People ask me in the restaurant 'Do the family go with you?' There'd be no reason for them to go, because they wouldn't see you. It is work at the end of the day."
The chef revealed "many things can go wrong" in a cookery show despite his mastery of the kitchen.
"Of course it does - that's life. You're trying to talk to camera, you're trying to cook. But because it's pre-recorded, if you make a mistake, you can just pick it up [from before the error]."
He and his production team will "hopefully" make a series this year in Boston, but Mr Maguire said his "dream" shooting location would be Thailand.
"I love Thai food. I love the ingredients and I love the culture, and the people are wonderful. I've been there quite a few times on holiday, not working. So that would be a dream come true."










